SPIDER CARE GUIDE
Choosing an enclosure:
- The little enclosure you bring your new spider home in is not intended to be their forever home. Regal jumping spiders can get quite large and the right size enclosure is important for their wellbeing.
- We recommend a final enclosure size of at least 4x4x8”. Taller is better because they are arboreal (live in trees) Smaller enclosures are perfect for juveniles and subadults.
- Enclosures that are too large can make it difficult for your spider to find food and to maintain humidity.
- It is NOT recommended to put a sling(baby spider) into a larger enclosure right away.
- Bottom or front opening are best because your spider will usually build their hammock at the top of the enclosure.
- It’s best not to disturb their hammocks. That is where they sleep and molt.
- Cross ventilation is very important to prevent mold growth in the enclosure.
Lighting/Temperature:
- While Jumping Spiders don’t require specific UV lighting, they do best in bright lighting on a normal daytime schedule.
- Placing them in a bright room or adding an LED light to keep their area well lit will keep them happy.
- Regal Jumping Spiders are native to Florida. That means they prefer warmer environments. Temperatures of 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit is preferred.
- If your spider is not very active, try placing them in a brighter/warmer room.
- Heat lamps are not recommended.
Cleaning their enclosure:
- Clean out dead bugs, excess webbing and waste as needed.
- It is best not to remove their hammocks as that is their safe spot and where they molt.
- As your spider ages, the excess webbing does help them maintain grip to the sides of the enclosure. (they will lose their grip as they age)
Feeding your spider:
- Refer back to the feeding guide image.
- Feed based on your spider’s abdomen.(usually every 3 days for younger spiders, older spiders can go for a weem or more without needing to eat.)
- Larger spiders can eat small dubia roaches, small crickets, small mealworms, bottle fly larvae/flies and most feeder insects.
- Small spiders and slings will generally be able to consume pinhead crickets, mini mealworms, xsmall dubia and fruit flies(hydei if older sling)
- Some spiders can go weeks without eating, especially if they are molting. If their abdomen is not small, they should be fine.
- Remove crickets and mealworms if not consumed as they can harm your spider and chew through mesh vents.
- If you have difficulty finding feeder insects, PLEASE REACH OUT!
WE LOVE TO REFER TO THIS FEEDING GUIDE CREATED BY RUE MORGAN
Humidity and hydration:
- It is important to provide your spiders with humidity. This is done by misting a bare side of their enclosure once daily. When your spider is molting or if your home is particularly dry you should mist twice daily. They will also drink from the mist.
- Use a fine mist spray bottle to prevent drowning in large droplets.
- Some owners will also provide a dish with water crystals, but do not just place a dish of water.
- Do not place a dish of water in their enclosure, your spider may drown in it.
Molting:
- Jumping Spiders molt until they are full grown. Many will molt 9+ times before they are adults.
- If your spider has created a thick hammock it is likely preparing to molt.
- LEAVE YOUR SPIDER ALONE. Do not try to force your spider out of their hammock or put food inside. Continue to mist their enclosure(increasing to twice daily) This process can sometimes take weeks.
- When your spider has completed it’s molt it will take a day or 2 for their exoskeleton to harden. Give them a day or so before attempting to feed.
- Molting is a big job, and unfortunately some spiders do not survive the process. You can give your spider the best chance by keeping the humidity up with misting and leaving them alone to do their thing.
LifeSpan:
- Jumping spiders are only with us for a short time.
- Males usually live about a year after their final molt and females about 1.5 - 2 years.
Female reproduction:
- Once they reach adulthood, female spiders will likely lay eggs. This is natural and will happen without mating.
- Your female spider has been raised in captivity, therefore any eggs laid will be infertile.
- Your spider may sit with her eggs for a couple weeks.
- During this time she may not eat or come out. Continue to mist her enclosure and offer food if she comes out.
- Eventually she will leave the eggs or eat them.
- She may lay 3 or more clutches of eggs in her life.
Safety:
QUESTIONS:
ALWAYS feel free to reach out to us with questions and concerns.
We love our spiders and want them to have the best possible life with you. 😊
We love photo updates!
Email:
orionshouseofjumpers@gmail.com
Text: 301-991-9809
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Orion's House of Jumpers
We are a family of 7 from Waynesboro, PA. I (Brent) work full time with 3D scanning and Samantha works full time as a medical assistant. We have 5 children! Ages 16, 15, 12, 9 and 3 years old. You probably have met one or 2 of them at an expo.
Our jumping spider adventure began with one singular pet spider. Soon enough that morphed into MANY more. And when you have 400 baby jumping spiders... what else are you going to do? Our first expo was in March 2023 in Gettysburg, PA. It was an amazing experience to see so many people fall in love with our spiders and enclosures. Our favorite part of this journey has been watching people transform their negative thoughts about spiders into positive ones, and doing it as a family! And of course being able to use our creativity to create beautiful spider homes!
We take pride in our small business and are always here to help and teach along the way. We look forward to working with all of you!